Berry fruits are popular the world over. Some berries are grown widely, in different climates and countries (e.g. strawberries), whilst others might be popular in some regions but not others.
Irrespective of what type of berries you choose to grow, you need to understand some of the basics of general horticulture practice.
Growing any type of plant can be unpredictable and different techniques may be used in different parts of the world (e.g. the best way of growing a strawberry in the UK may be different to the best way for a tropical country). For this reason it is always important to keep in mind the conditions that a book or magazine article is talking about - a blueberry grower in Northern New South Wales Australia, or Florida America may have a different approach to a blueberry grower in Nova Scotia. There can also be great variations over relatively small distances in such things as rainfall, wind and soil type. A particular might produce higher yields in one valley than in an adjoining valley due to climatic variations. This does not mean that information from other areas is not useful it just means you need to assimilate new information in relation to what you already know.
Each lesson culminates in an assignment which is submitted to the school, marked by the school's tutors and returned to you with any relevant suggestions, comments, and if necessary, extra reading.
Extract From Course:
Raspberry (Rubus idaeus) Family: Rosaceae 
Raspberries are an ideal small fruit crop for small scale production. However initial investment requirements are quite high; preparation of the land, suitable growing trellis and an irrigation system can be expensive to install. However once the initial capital is spent on establishment on-going costs are relatively low particularly for small farm production.
Raspberries generally fruit from between 6 and 20 years. A short shelf life can present problems for small growers that do not have cool rooms or quick market access. The growing season is also short so producers would need to have other crops to sustain the farm's operation out of season. Raspberries (red) have chilling requirements so they are also limited to where they can be grown ie. cool regions are required.
Description: this is essentially similar to other brambles, although having smaller thorns. Its requirements are the same, but its culture differs in the manner of pruning and training. In this regard, the lawtonberry/black raspberry (R. occidentalis) may also be treated similarly.
Culture: Moist, neutral, light soils and summer irrigation are required to successfully grow raspberries. Because they fruit late in the season raspberries are unaffected by frost. Although raspberries are a woodland plant and accustomed to some shade full sun with rows running north - south is ideal.
Soils should be well dug and a generous amount of compost incorporated before planting.
Plant raspberries in autumn in well prepared trenches 45cm apart and cover the roots with soil 5cm above the soil line on the canes, cut the canes back to 15cm to encourage a vigorous root system and healthy plant growth the following season. The plants should be discouraged from fruiting in the first season. This can be accomplished by removing all of the previous year's canes in the first month of summer when the fruit just starts to swell.
Work some blood and bone into the surface of the soil at the rate of approx 1 handful per square metre and water the area well.
Raspberries may be grown either on a hedgerow system (about 45cm apart) or a bush system (up to 2m apart) in rows 2 ‑ 3m apart. In the former case, a trellis of two parallel wires is used with strands at 0.7m and 1.4m respectively. In the latter case, the canes are tied up to stakes and limited in number depending on the distance between plants.
Summer fruiting raspberries grow from this year's shoots on last year's branches; prune these varieties from the second year onwards by cutting down all of the previous year's branches (those that have fruited) down to 15cm and also any weak shoots, directly after harvest in mid summer ie. January in the Southern Hemisphere, and July in the Northern Hemisphere. The remaining shoots are the tied to the support wires as they grow throughout the summer. In some varieties an autumn crop may be produced by tipping the late developing canes when they reach the first wire. Others are left to fruit the following summer. Autumn fruiting canes are pruned in the same way in early winter.
More Resources
See our mail order bookshop for books on various aspects of horticulture including Berry Fruit
www.acsbookshop.com
REASONS TO STUDY WITH ACS DISTANCE EDUCATION
- Reputation:
-teaching Horticulture since 1979
-exceptional faculty staff (see below) - Hands on: develop practical as well as theoretical skills
- Uniqueness:
-successful people are always those who can offer a skill or service that others can't
-this course is different; our graduates have different skills to set them apart. - Relevance -curriculum developed in response to industry needs
- Lots of help: personal, prompt attention from tutors
- Holistic Courses: We teach more than just "facts"
-success is only 20% about intelligence (and what you know)
-you also need to build networking, problem solving & communication skills, and more!
-this course helps you develop all of these things and more - Value: courses compare very favorably on a cost per study hour basis
- Up to date: courses under constant review
- Student amenities: This school is backed by over one of the most unique and comprehensive private collections of intellectual property in the horticultural industry. The principal and staff have written and published over 50 books and 150 gardening magazines, as well as 20,000 hours horticultural study programs. A team of 5 horticultural writers continue to develop and update new material continually. These resources together with web sites, an online student room, social media etc. provide a unique and comprehensive facility to support students studying with the school.
OUR FACULTY
These are just some of the people involved with developing and updating courses; and tutoring our horticulture students
John Mason Dip.Hort.Sc.
40 years + in horticulture Graduated from Burnley Horticultural College in 1971,Nurseryman, Landscape Designer and Parks Director through the 1970's. One of Australia's most published garden writers, author of books published by Simon and Schuster, Harper Collins, CSIRO and other major publishers; Editor for 4 different national gardening magazines; honored as a fellow of both the Institute of Horticulture in Australia and the Institute of Horticulture in the UK.
Gavin Cole B.Sc., M.Psych.
30 years + in horticulture. Renowned horticulturist and psychologist. Former operations manager for the highly regarded "Chelsea Gardener" landscape firm in London, garden writer and landscaper in both Brisbane and Adelaide in Australia.
Maggi Brown
40 years + in horticulture. Former education manager for "Garden Organic"; England's peak organic gardening and farming body.
Dr Lyn Morgan Phd
25 years + in horticulture. New Zealand based hydroponic consultant and author, with experience working everywhere from Asia to America.
Rosemary Davies Dip.Hort.Sc.
30 years + in horticulture; including Victorian Department of Agriculture Gradening Advisor, Gardening Editor/writer/author for major publishers and newspapers.
Diana Cole B,A., RHS Dip Hort, NTEC Higher Dip in Garden Design
15 years + in horticulture and landscaping
Adriana Fraser Adv.Dip.Hort.
30 years + in horticulture. Consultant, teacher, garden write, manager of plant collections
Bob James B.App.Sc(Hort), M. Env.Sc., Grad.Dip.Mgt.
Yvonne Sharpe Dip.Hort., M.Hort.
Martin Powdrill B.Sc(Hons), M.Sc. PDC
Marie Beerman B.Sc., M.Hort.
