Distance Education Course in Rose Growing
- Become a Rose Expert
- Learn to identify and grow different roses
- Learn to use roses in garden design, grow them as cut flowers, tub plants etc.
- Follow your passion, or work with roses as a career
- A course for nurserymen, plant breeders, landscapers, gardeners, or anyone with an enthusiasm for roses
Roses have been cultivated since as early as 2000 years BC (in China). Modern roses have largely originated as hybrids of the species roses which have been grown for centuries.
The exact origins of many of our modern roses is either complicated and difficult to follow; or in some cases difficult to track down at all. Until 1975 the popular modern rose with the conical type flower was referred to as a Hybrid Tea. Hybrid teas are now called Large Flowered Roses by the experts.
Floribundas (until 1975) were roses which were produced as a hybrid between miniature roses (ie. True polyanthas) with larger flowering roses. Floribundas are now called Cluster Flowered Roses by the experts. 'Hybrid Tea' and 'Floribunda' are still commonly used terms though.
COURSE STRUCTURE
There are eight lessons as follows:
- Introduction
- Culture
- Propagation
- Hybrid Teas & Floribundas
- Old world, species and lesser known varieties.
- Climbers, Miniatures, Standards & Weepers
- Making the Best Use of these Plants
- Growing A Commercial Rose Crop
AIMS
On successful completion of the course you should be able to do the following:
- Distinguish between characteristic plant features in order to identify different types of roses.
- Determine cultural practices for growing roses in different situations.
- Perform all operations associated with pruning roses.
- Distinguish between the culture of different types of roses, including hybrid teas, floribundas and species rose groups.
- Plan the establishment of a rose garden.
- Plan the production of a commercial rose crop.
WHAT THE COURSE COVERS
You will learn a wide variety of things, through a combination of reading, interacting with tutors, undertaking research and practical tasks, and watching videos. Here are just some of the things you will be doing:
- Distinguish between the morphology of different groups of roses.
- Compile a resource collection of thirty contacts to assist with identification of roses.
- Prepare a collection of 32 photographs or illustrations of rose varieties.
- determine how to grow roses in your locality, detailing:
- soil preparation
- planting
- fertilising
- staking
- watering in
- Describe how to propagate roses, using various techniques including:
- Grafting
- Budding
- Layering
- Seed
- Identify the pests and diseases afflicting rose plants.
- Differentiate between the culture and use in the garden of different types of roses, including:
- climbers
- miniatures
- standards
- bush roses
- Differentiate between the culture of roses in a greenhouse, and in the open ground.
- Distinguish between the pruning of climbing, ramblers, bush, miniature and standard roses,
- Compare the culture and application of Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and Polyanthas in a garden or nursery visited by you.
- Determine appropriate rose varieties to be included in a proposed rose garden, in accordance with given
specifications.
- Prepare a plan for a rose garden including:
- Scale drawings
- Plant lists
- A materials list
- Cost estimates.
- Develop criteria for selecting rose varieties to grow as a commercial crop, for a specified purpose.
- Evaluate rose flowers offered for sale.
- Determine factors which are critical to the production of various rose products, such as:
- Cut flower roses
- Rose hip syrup
- Rose oil
- Dried rose petals
- Nursery stock roses.
Rose Growing Tips
There are over 100 species and thousands of varieties, grown as a bush, cut flower, a standard or espalier. They are often used as a feature against a backdrop of larger green shrubs; or behind a hedge of lower shrubs.
A beautiful bed of roses can be a gardener's pride and joy. Roses are generally very healthy plants and they live a long time if their health is maintained. Always buy healthy plants and choose a full sun site with well drained position to plant them in. As they have a shallow fibrous root system, avoid planting near large trees which have shallow spreading roots.
Roses are mainly deciduous, but occasionally evergreen, shrubs and ramblers. In warm zones like tropics and subtropics, roses tend to stay evergreen. The leaves usually odd pinnate & alternate. Stems are often very thorny. Flowers of most cultivars are large, colourful, and may be borne singularly or in clusters.
They are best in temperate climates; excessive heat and humidity will cause fungal problems.
In very cold snow prone areas; plants can be damaged over winter; but they will withstand some frost and even snow. Roses adapt to most soils, if drained, and can do well in clay soils where some other plants are difficult.
Providing good soil conditions will help ensure your roses stay healthy. Most roses will tolerate a wide variety of soil types, but prefer reasonable drainage. Adding gypsum to clay soils will help improve soil structure. Adding well rotted organic matter to the soil will help retain moisture, improve soil structure and nutrition, and help maintain soil temperatures at suitable levels for growth. If your soil has an acid pH adding lime will generally prove beneficial. The lime can be added to the soil prior to planting, or sprinkled onto the soil surface for establishing roses.
Roses respond well to feeding. A slow release complete fertiliser or well rotted manure is best.
Roots can be burnt if they come in contact with strong fertilisers.
Be careful to keep rotting material away from the base of the rose to prevent any possible disease infection.
Watering is essential if a rose is to flower well. Avoid watering the foliage - it's better to make a dish in the soil surface at the base of a plant and fill it with water to allow slow penetration. Don't let plants dry out.
Annual winter pruning is essential to rejuvenate the plant and encourage growth of young wood (flowers form on these young shoots...the more young shoots, the more flowers). In temperate climates at least half of the top growth is removed each winter. In snow areas cut plants back very hard (ie 95%) and cover with straw over winter. Roses are usually budded (grafted) so when you prune them do not cut below the bud. Plants pruned regularly can last more than 100 years.
Roses are largely sold bare rooted in winter. You will buy the best selection of plants early winter when they are first released onto the market. Roses sold at other times of the year are in pots and can be planted at any time.
Aphis and caterpillars are major problems. They can be controlled with insecticides such as pyrethrum. Black spot, mildew and rust are common fungal problems and should be controlled with a good fungicidal spray.
To minimise pest and disease problems always remove and burn fallen leaves, prunings and mildew infected shoot tips. Ensure that plants won't be overcrowded. Good ventilation around your roses helps prevent fungal infections occurring.
ENROL NOW ....LEARN MORE
REASONS TO STUDY WITH ACS DISTANCE EDUCATION
- Reputation:
-teaching Horticulture since 1979
-exceptional faculty staff (see below) - Hands on: develop practical as well as theoretical skills
- Uniqueness:
-successful people are always those who can offer a skill or service that others can't
-this course is different; our graduates have different skills to set them apart. - Relevance -curriculum developed in response to industry needs
- Lots of help: personal, prompt attention from tutors
- Holistic Courses: We teach more than just "facts"
-success is only 20% about intelligence (and what you know)
-you also need to build networking, problem solving & communication skills, and more!
-this course helps you develop all of these things and more - Value: courses compare very favorably on a cost per study hour basis
- Up to date: courses under constant review
- Student amenities: This school is backed by over one of the most unique and comprehensive private collections of intellectual property in the horticultural industry. The principal and staff have written and published over 50 books and 150 gardening magazines, as well as 20,000 hours horticultural study programs. A team of 5 horticultural writers continue to develop and update new material continually. These resources together with web sites, an online student room, social media etc. provide a unique and comprehensive facility to support students studying with the school.
OUR FACULTY
These are just some of the people involved with developing and updating courses; and tutoring our horticulture students
John Mason Dip.Hort.Sc.
40 years + in horticulture Graduated from Burnley Horticultural College in 1971,Nurseryman, Landscape Designer and Parks Director through the 1970's. One of Australia's most published garden writers, author of books published by Simon and Schuster, Harper Collins, CSIRO and other major publishers; Editor for 4 different national gardening magazines; honored as a fellow of both the Institute of Horticulture in Australia and the Institute of Horticulture in the UK.
Gavin Cole B.Sc., M.Psych.
30 years + in horticulture. Renowned horticulturist and psychologist. Former operations manager for the highly regarded "Chelsea Gardener" landscape firm in London, garden writer and landscaper in both Brisbane and Adelaide in Australia.
Maggi Brown
40 years + in horticulture. Former education manager for "Garden Organic"; England's peak organic gardening and farming body.
Dr Lyn Morgan Phd
25 years + in horticulture. New Zealand based hydroponic consultant and author, with experience working everywhere from Asia to America.
Rosemary Davies Dip.Hort.Sc.
30 years + in horticulture; including Victorian Department of Agriculture Gradening Advisor, Gardening Editor/writer/author for major publishers and newspapers.
Diana Cole B,A., RHS Dip Hort, NTEC Higher Dip in Garden Design
15 years + in horticulture and landscaping
Adriana Fraser Adv.Dip.Hort.
30 years + in horticulture. Consultant, teacher, garden write, manager of plant collections
Bob James B.App.Sc(Hort), M. Env.Sc., Grad.Dip.Mgt., PDC, Dip.An.Husb.
Yvonne Sharpe Dip.Hort., M.Hort.
Martin Powdrill B.Sc(Hons), M.Sc. PDC
Marie Beerman B.Sc., M.Hort.