CERTIFICATE IN ARBORICULTURE VHT090

CERTIFICATE IN ARBORICULTURE

• Develop knowledge and skills needed to work in arboriculture,
• Lay a foundation for lifelong learning in plant identification, selection and care.
• Work in tree management -start a business, or get a job

COURSE CONTENT

This course is made of two parts, including the following modules:

Part 1:

• Horticulture l
• Arboriculture 1
• Plant Selection and Establishment

Part 2: 

• Arboriculture ll
• plus 2 elective modules (You choose)

 All assignments must be completed and exams passed in the six modules listed above.

Duration: 600 hours (approximately)

Using the Right Trees and Shrubs is half the battle!

Size is the first consideration, but definitely not the only consideration when you choose a plant for a small garden. Some small plants can be a real problem in a confined area, for example:

• Scent from strongly scented plants will not escape so readily in an enclosed garden.
• Small areas enclosed by brick or stone walls, or with paving can become heat traps
   (this can allow plants that might be cold sensitive in your area, to be grown easier; but it can also increase the requirement those plants have for watering).
• Enclosed spaces are often poorly ventilated; and that can result in greater humidity and lower levels of carbon dioxide than what a more open garden might experience (these things can put stress on the health of some plants).
• In a smaller area, every square metre gets more intensive use, and that can mean such things as more damage by pets and increased soil compaction from people.
• Prickly or poisonous plants are more likely to be brushed in a confined area.
• Falling leaves, flowers or fruits are more likely to get to places where you do not want them.
• The density of foliage is more likely to impact upon light levels and ventilation.
• Sometimes the roots of some smaller plants may be more damaging than those of larger plants.

Any plant will always grow differently in different places.

Most trees and shrubs will grow slower and smaller in colder climates; so often something that might be inappropriate for a small garden in a mild temperate climate; might be acceptable in a cold temperate climate.

If you have a favourite tree or shrub, but don’t have the space to grow it; all hope is not lost.
 
There are often ways of treating plants to accomadate the space restrictions you confront. You might grow it in a tub; or just prune it to restrict its’ size. If the roots pose a problem, you might plant it in a confined position; where the root system is restricted form getting too large.

Making Big Plants Fit in Small Places
Trees that might ordinarily be too big for a small garden may still be able to be grown, using a technique to restrict the plant’s size. The most obvious way is to grow the tree in a tub; or to restrict the spread of roots or foliage by pruning. Many larger plants can be readily kept much smaller in this manner, for example as hedges, or as topiary specimens, or even as bonsai.

ROOT CONTROL
If you confine roots to a particular soil volume, they can be kept from invading unwanted areas. This technique will also tend to reduce the overall size of the tree. Toot control may be affected by any of the following methods:

• Build a concrete wall under the ground
• Woven fabrics that restrict movement of roots (eg. root control bags).
• Thin plastic or metal barriers placed vertically down into the ground to prevent roots spreading outwards from the plant into areas where the they might be a problem (e.g. pipes, water features, paved areas). If the barrier reaches deep enough (ideally at least 50 - 60cm or more) then any roots that do go beneath the barrier are usually deep enough not to cause problems for paved areas.

WEEPING TREES
Although there are many naturally weeping plants, some weeping trees are produced by grafting. Generally a tall upright growing variety forms the rootstock, and a spreading variety is grafted on top, at a desired height. This produces a straight upright trunk supporting outstretched and drooping branches on top. The height of weeping trees can be controlled (hence many have potential for smaller gardens). Be aware that some weeping trees can still spread a great deal, and become quite large. Weeping elms for instance might be inappropriate for a courtyard, but a weeping Acer palmatum ‘Dissectum’ may be appropriate.

Examples of plants commonly grafted as weepers include:
Acer palmatum cultivars
Cherries
Flowering Peach Cultivars
Silver Birch
Roses
Conifer varieties
Prostrate Grevilleas (e.g. G. ‘Royal Mantle’, G. ‘Gaudi Chaudi’, G. thelmaniana).

STANDARDS
Standards are often developed by grafting an upright or bushy styled plant onto a more erect cultivar of the same plant genus.
Alternatively a normal plant can sometimes be trained, through careful pruning to achieve the same standard habit. The desired plant is allowed to grow as a single stem until the height is achieved where you desire branching (the ball shape) is to commence. At this point the plant is pruned. Pruning is continuous from this point onwards in order to achieve a bushy well-branched specimen. Any branches that develop below the desired point are removed immediately. The height of the standard and the size of the ball are purely subjective. In other words, you can select any dimension you desire.
Many small shrubs and trees are suitable for standards. The bushier the natural habit of the plant tends to be, the better suited to standard formation the plant generally is.

ESPALIERS
The spread of larger plants can often be contained by growing them as espaliers. This is the process of growing a plant up a wall or trellis, or similar structure, with the plant trained and pruned against the flat structure minimising its spread outwards. This can be a great way of utilising what might otherwise be a bare wall, and allow you to grow plants that might otherwise be to big. Trellising or wire stays might be used against the wall to provide anchorage points to train branches too.

ENROL IN THIS COURSE AND TRAIN TO BE A PROFESSIONAL ARBORIST

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THE ACS TEAM APPROACH

ACS was founded by John Mason in 1979 as Australian Horticultural Correspondence School.

Right from these very early times, we've always believed that the best education only comes when the student is learning from the experience of a whole range of industry experts (rather than just a single teacher).

Every ACS course is a work in progress, continually evolving, with new information being added and old information being updated by our team of internationally renowned professional horticulturists.

Over the decades more than 100 horticulture experts from across the world have contributed to these courses, bringing their individual knowledge and experiences from as wide afield as England and Spain to Australia and America.

While may colleges and universities focus on providing courses that relate only to the country where they are based, ACS has always striven to make its courses relevant to all parts of the world; any climate, economic or cultural situation. This has been achieved by involving a large number of professionals in the course development.

When it comes to tutoring, marking papers and mentoring students, the team approach is just as strong as with our writing. ACS students have the ability to obtain advice and support from staff across the world, with horticulture tutors located in the UK, Australia (both the north and south) and New Zealand.

The ACS team approach and global focus to both course content and student support, ensures our graduates have a unique and "real world" skills set. This unique approach is highly regarded by our colleagues in horticulture.

Modules

Note that each module in the CERTIFICATE IN ARBORICULTURE VHT090 is a short course in its own right, and may be studied separately.

Evergreens

·         Thoroughly soak the plant in the pot to help the plant come out of the pot easier and allow it to drain The root ball must be moist when removing from pot

·         Dig a hole one and a half times the depth of the pot

·         Fill the hole with water to check drainage and wet the subsoil

·         Fill in one third of the hole and mix fertiliser with the back filled soil

·         Carefully take the plant out of the pot. For small to medium containers, tip upside down & shake; if this does not work; tap ridge of pot on the edge of a wheelbarrow or top of a wall. Large pots may need to be cut away from the plant

·         Loosen any exposed roots. (ie. If most of the roots are inside the soil ball, you might not need to do much. If there is a tight mass of roots on the outside of the soil ball you may need to break a centimetre or so into the ball all over) 

·         Free any roots circling the root ball

·         Place the plant in the hole and cover with soil. Firm down

·         Make a lip of soil around the base of the plant to hold water

·         Soak thoroughly with water.

Deciduous and Bare-rooted Plants

Most plants don’t like being planted out during the middle of winter. But for some deciduous plants, this is the best time to plant. Deciduous plants mostly come from the colder areas of the world go into a state of hibernation during winter. They lose all or most of their leaves during winter to protect themselves from frosts and snow. This means that they will suffer much less stress if they are transplanted at this time. Bare rooted plants usually are wrapped in sphagnum moss. Many deciduous plants are grown in the ground in field nurseries and then dug up in winter.  

The correct way to plant a deciduous plant:

·         Select your site carefully. Don’t plant large trees under power lines and ensure that roses and fruit trees will receive adequate light 

·         Dig a hole that is wide enough for all the roots. For most plants, the hole will not need to be very deep 

·         Create a mound in the middle of the hole

·         Take the plant out of its wrapper. Don’t allow the roots of the plant to dry out while you are working

·         Place the centre of the trunk over the mound and spread out the roots 

·         If roots or branches have been damaged, remove them with a sharp cutting tool

·         Ensure that the base of the trunk is level with the surrounding soil

·         Backfill the hole, taking care not to damage the roots 

·         Insert a hose into the planting hole and turn on the water at moderate pressure until the hole is saturated.